Song Cover Image

Curd.

Citizens! I will sell, to you, the lemon... Lots of them, at least thirteen of them... more if you can. Approach the crate. Do not just grab the first yellow object you see. We are looking for ammunition... not decoration. First... The Weigh-in. Pick it up. It should feel heavy... surprisingly heavy for its size. Like a hand grenade. If it feels light... if it feels like a tennis ball... put it back. It is dry. It is a coffin of white dust. We want the weight of water. The Skin. Look closely. Is it bumpy? Is it thick? Does it look like the hide of a rhinoceros? Reject it. Thick skin means thick pith. You are paying for packaging. You want the smooth ones... The thin-skinned ones. The ones where you can almost see the oil cells bursting on the surface. Give it a squeeze. It should have a little give... a little resistance. Rock hard is unripe. Squishy is rot. We want the tension of life. Now... A warning. Since we are using the Zest... we face an enemy. Wax. Most commercial lemons are coated in wax to make them shine under the lights. If you grate that... you are eating candle grease. Buy "Unwaxed" if you can find them. If you cannot... you must scrub. Hot water... a stiff brush... and violence. Strip the armor off. Smell it. If it smells of nothing... it is nothing. If it smells of sunshine and pain... Buy it. Next, Citizen, We approach the stove with caution. We are making Lemon Curd. The ingredients are simple... The technique is lethal. You need Eggs... Sugar... Lemon Juice, a lot of it, perhaps twelve lemons juiced... and Butter. First... The Setup. Do not put the saucepan directly on the flame. That is how you make an omelette. We want a Bain-marie. A pot of simmering water... with a glass bowl sitting on top. The bowl must not touch the water. It sits on the steam... like a throne on a cloud. The Emulsion. In the bowl... whisk the eggs and the sugar. Whisk them until they are pale... until they realize they are no longer separate entities. Add the Lemon Juice... and the Zest. Now... The Vigil. You cannot walk away. You cannot be distracted... Concentrate, citizen. You must stir... quickly. Use a wooden spoon or a whisk... Figure of eight motion. Keep the mixture moving. If it sits still against the hot glass... it scrambles. We do not want lumps... We want velvet. Watch the spoon. It will happen slowly... then all at once. The mixture thickens. Lift the spoon. Draw a line through the yellow cream on the back of it with your finger, and suck the delicious pain as you watch. Does the line hold? Does it look like the sun caught in a net? It is done. Take it off the heat immediately. Do not hesitate. Now... The Finish. It is hot... but we are not finished. The Butter. It must be cold... cubed. Throw it in. Whisk it... furiously...! Faster, Citizen, Faster... work those muscles!! As the butter melts... it cools the curd... and gives it a shine that you can see your face in. And finally... The Insurance Policy. Pass it through a fine sieve. Catch the zest... catch the accidentally cooked bits of egg white... the amount caught will tell me how much practice you need, citizen... I'm watching you... we... are watching you. Push it through. What lands in the jar below is pure gold. Let it cool. It will set firm. Spread it on toast... fill a tart... or hide in a corner and eat it all, by yourself, like a guilty heathen, with nought but a spoon... in the dark. You navigated the heat... and you survived. Carry on.